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Nail Files is a series in which Vogue asks creators and enthusiasts to muse on their love of the manicure, from favorite designs to must-follow artists and salons.
When nail artist Zola Ganzorigt uploaded her first ever Instagram post in 2012, it was a picture of her own nail art—two pink stripes on a cream and shimmer base—with the caption “Hobby.” At the time, she worked as a risk manager at a bank in her home country of Mongolia and was about four years away from moving to L.A., where the hobby would eventually evolve into a thriving career with clients like Hailey Bieber, Kendall Jenner, Sydney Sweeney, Sabrina Carpenter, Vanessa Hudgens, and Nail Files alum iann dior. Now, with a professional nails-only Instagram account and TikTok, attention on Ganzorigt has hit an all-time high thanks to the “glazed donut” nail—a sheer, iridescent, milky white look she created for Bieber ahead of the 2022 Met Gala in a nod to the model’s favorite skin look.
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“The trick to the glazed donut nail is that instead of the usual base coat for nail powder, I used a top coat underneath that doesn’t turn yellow when you cure it,” says Ganzorigt, who used OPI Stay Shiny Top Coat over one coat of off-white Funny Bunny, then followed it with a titanium and graphite chrome nail powder in Tin Man Can, plus a final layer of the shiny top coat (see the TikTok tutorial here). “It was really a last-minute decision—I had just gotten the chrome so we didn’t know how it would turn out. But we loved it.” She also did the look on Hudgens earlier this month.
The translucent sandwiching effect has gained more than 100 million videos with the tag #glazeddonutnails on TikTok, but the artist’s wide range of looks is what has really gained her a loyal, high-profile following. “I try to understand the person and work with their interests and what kind of job they have,” she says. Check out her bejeweled look for Bieber’s Perfect magazine shoot—where the two met—for an example of the wilder end of her nail art spectrum.
Here, Ganzorigt shares her nail intel, including why the oval is her favorite shape, top tips for a lasting manicure, and the three ideal nude polishes she returns to again and again.
Manicures–occasional treat or lifestyle?
A lifestyle. To me, your nail is like your outfit. Nowadays people express themselves through their nails—it shows who they are.
How should you feel leaving the salon?
My clients say they feel so relaxed. Because I do a lot of house calls, I want them to feel safe in their private space and have the best feeling when I finish. I want to see the excitement in their eyes.
Favorite local salon or nail artist that you look to for inspiration?
I really like Amy Le Nails in L.A., she’s super talented. Chaun Legend, he’s a stylist—different mind—but I love his work. I really respect every single manicurist, especially [when they’ve been] working for a long time. You have to be so patient in this industry, it’s really competitive.
Go-to shape?
Medium length oval shape, the Hailey shape. I have it too. Even though I do different kinds of art, my main goal is for my clients to have naturally long nails, and the most efficient nail shape to grow your nail is the oval. It doesn’t break as easily. And it also looks more feminine to me.
Gel or regular?
Gel polish, especially when it comes to design and it lasts long. And on set it has to dry as fast as possible.
Defining color?
I mostly do nudes but every person has a different skin tone so every shade of nude looks different on them. Mostly I mix different combinations of three different colors: OPI Bubble Bath, Put it in Neutral, and Bare My Soul.
Clean and simple or next-level art?
I have to customize it depending on my clients’ interests. For myself, I love nude nails. Recently I’m doing every different shade of the glazed donut nail—it’s now my go-to thing.
Favorite products for prepping your nails and hands?
Nail prep is the most important part to keep your nails healthy. I really like Orly tools and cleaning products to prep. A common mistake I see is when people clean the cuticle but they don’t clean up the nail bed.
Matching mani-pedis: a must or rule meant to be broken?
It’s good if you’re coordinating your look, but I always mismatch myself. I don’t really care if it’s matching or mismatching. You can do whatever you want!