Hemingway lied when he called Paris a moveable feast—if it were, I wouldn’t have to book a transatlantic flight to taste my favorite bistro’s addictive steak frites sauce. It’s one of the quintessential flavors of the French capital, reassuringly unchanged since 1959. The city’s restaurant scene has undergone quite a renaissance in the decades since, from the bloom of neo-bistros in the early 2000s to the recent-ish proliferation of natural wine bars serving seasonally-inspired small plates.
That’s perhaps the best thing about dining out in Paris: there’s always somewhere new and exciting to try, while the classics stick around. Whether you prefer more old-school outposts or track the newest restaurant openings around the city, there’s something for every type of Francophile and food-lover on this list, from timeless French bistros and Japanese-inspired tasting menus to seafood-focused stalls tucked into the city’s oldest food market.
Below, the Vogue guide to the best restaurants in Paris.
Substance
Avoid the expensive and extremely average French fare around the Eiffel Tower and make a beeline for one-Michelin-star Substance, which is indisputably the best meal to be had within walking distance of the landmark. The chef’s counter is an exquisite experience, where you’ll watch as chef Matthias Marc, a former Top Chef semi-finalist, plates small bowls of Cancoillotte (a fabulously creamy cheese) topped with juicy bursts of trout roe, or arranges three sublime gnocchi to be finished off tableside with Morteau sausage and vin jaune—all a love letter to his native Jura. The restaurant offers a 65 euro menu at lunch, but if you have a few hours to spare, indulge in one of their more immersive tasting menus alongside pitch-perfect wine pairings from the knowledgeable sommelier, or pop a bottle from their expansive 180-cuvée selection of Champagne.
Bistrot Paul Bert
There’s no better way to start or end a trip to Paris than with the steak frites at Bistrot Paul Bert, which arrive swimming in a peppercorn cream sauce so luscious you’ll lick the plate clean. Bertrand Auboyneau’s beloved French establishment opened on rue Paul Bert, a hedonist’s hyphen of a street in the 11th, in 1997, and has remained the go-to bistrot for locals and foreigners alike—that is, if you can snag a reservation (via phone only, so brush up on your bonjour). The decor is classic and charming, with red leather banquets, mosaic floors, and a hand-scrawled chalkboard menu. You’ll come for the steak, but stay for the airy soufflé and until you’ve polished off a bottle or two from the ever-evolving natural wine list, which boasts some excellent back vintages from their cellar.
Amagat
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Walking down the cobbled alley of Père Lachaise-adjacent Villa Riberolle always feels a bit like trespassing. It is, quite literally, off the beaten path—watch your feet as you navigate the uneven cobblestones, especially when returning home after a few liberal pours of Amagat’s house vermouth. Follow the din of laughter and music floating from around the corner and you’ll find yourself in the city’s sultriest summer garden, a leafy courtyard strung up with twinkle lights where stylish Parisians sip on natural wine, snack on Catalan tapas, and smoke freely. New Turkish-Swedish chef Sahin Erdal is putting his own spin on the menu, with a whole grilled fish dressed with sweet paprika glaze and salsa verde stealing the show—order it alongside their hallmark mountain of shoestring French fries laced with spicy bravas sauce.
Clown Bar
Famed for their dashi-soaked veal brains and sunny Belle Époque decor, this monument historique is perennially packed with expats and tourists tucking into classic French dishes with a distinctly Japanese touch. Don’t let the crowd deter you: this is one of the most perfect meals in the city, especially when washed down with a glass of natural wine at the zinc bar or out on the terrace (if you don’t mind second-hand smoke). Come here for a full meal, or for a bite-sized portion of what might be the best beef tartare in Paris, served on a crispy cracker of nori and puffed rice.
Maison Sota
This is a home-cooked meal like nothing you’ve ever had: Maison Sota is in fact a house—the only one on rue Saint Hubert, formerly used for wine storage and as a repair workshop for coffee machines—now converted into an airy, loft-like space that seats 40 around an open kitchen; the best seats are along the communal table or facing the wood-fired oven at the bar. Chef Sota Atsumi, formerly of Clown Bar, mans the kitchen himself, while guests snack on addictively good chestnut bread and ogle the room’s warm rhubarb hues and traditional terracotta tiles. Chef Atsumi’s tasting menu is available at lunch and dinner, including Sunday lunch. Expect plump scallops with licks of vibrant uni and fresh jerusalem artichoke juice, or dehydrated cabbage leaves rehydrated in dashi to deliver a saucy surprise. While tasting menus are often a tick off the bucket list, this is one you’ll want to return to again and again.
Les Enfants du Marché
Tucked among the labyrinth of flower stands, butchers, and Moroccan traiteurs in Paris’ oldest food market, this seasonal seafood-focused stall never disappoints (except when you can’t snag a stool). Dishes are plated with precision and Pollock-esque flair, like spiky Galician sea urchins with duck consommé and garlic flowers flecked with herby oil. The wine list is equally show-stopping—the energetic, bilingual servers will be glad to pour you a taste or two, or set you up with something special, like a bottle of mineral-driven Jean-François Ganevat alongside pancetta-like cubes of pressed pig ears with green asparagus and kumquats. Best of all, they’re open on Sundays, when many other restaurants are closed.
Lapérouse
Known for its outlandish Fashion Week parties, this opulent 18th-century maison de plaisirs is a historic Left Bank hotspot. Serge Gainsbourg met Jane Birkin here, and the gilded interiors feature in Midnight in Paris. Today, LVMH’s Antoine Arnault has a hand in the place, which means a fashionable crowd tends to gather for a menu where a decadent bump of caviar can be added to just about everything, from al-dente rigatoni to their famous mashed potatoes. Book a reservation on the later side—say 10:30 p.m.—if you want to dine before the party starts.
Chez L’Ami Jean
Work up an appetite milling about nearby museums—Musée Rodin and Musée YSL would be my first choices—then book in at this refreshingly raucous 7th arrondissement bistro with a devoted fan base. It’s easy to see why it’s earned such a cult following, both among locals and foreigners in search of the quintessential bistro experience. Stepping through the warm, wooden facade transports you to a bygone Paris: the red leather banquettes and tiled floors haven’t changed much since the space’s past life as a Basque pub in the 1930s, and there’s a conviviality among the communal-style tables that means phones only really come out to snap quick photos of Stéphane Jego’s divine food. Standout plates include the roast pigeon and the chef’s signature rice pudding.
Hakuba Paris
There are endless gastronomic delights to discover in Paris, but Cheval Blanc is its own petite universe of culinary experiences: beyond the luxury LVMH-owned hotel’s rooftop brasserie, upscale Italian restaurant, and superb three-Michelin-star Plénitude, their newest offering is a Japanese omakase spot. Hakuba—the Japanese translation of Cheval Blanc, or “white horse”—is all gorgeous grained wood and rice paper screens. It’s an intimate, minimalist space where maximal consideration is given to every bite, created in collaboration between chef Takuya Watanabe and the hotel’s pastry chef Maxime Frédéric. To eat such fresh, delicate sushi and sashimi is already a transportive experience; the achingly beautiful tableware, all handcrafted by artisans in Kyoto, will take you even further.
Clamato
There’s no better place to be on a Sunday in Paris than slurping down a seafood platter at Clamato—after all, oysters and other briny bits are the best cure for a gueule de bois (hangover). The ambiance at Septime’s no-reservation next-door neighbor is laidback and low-maintenance, although the food is top-notch and delivered fresh daily. The menu changes according to the sustainably sourced catch of the day, but recent delights included cockles doused in smoked vinegar butter and a bonito tataki with tamarind.
Mokonuts
There’s only one rule at Mokonuts: order everything on the menu. Admittedly, that may be self-imposed, but I’d encourage everyone who manages to get a reservation at this tiny, breakfast-and-lunch-only spot to follow suit. I was first introduced to the restaurant by my mentor of sorts, fellow lifestyle writer Sara Lieberman, who lived nearby for years; in homage, it’s become the place I insist on bringing first-timers whenever I’m in Paris. It never disappoints. Moko Hirayama, one-half of the husband-wife duo at the helm, whizzes around the room taking orders, delivering ceramic plates of roast squab or silky corn soup topped with crunchy prawns (cooked up by her husband, Omar Koreitem), and dipping into the cellar for natural wines from France, Austria, and beyond. It’s her tireless energy (plus her fluffy homemade bread and famous miso-sesame cookies) that keeps me coming back.
Chez Janou
You don’t really come to Chez Janou for the food—classic Provençal fare like chou farci and moules gratinées—you come here for the chocolate mousse. You’ve likely seen it on social media: a waiter arrives with what is essentially a bottomless pot of fluffy and decadent chocolate mousse, scooping generous portions onto your plate until you’ve had your fill. It’s a great weekend brunch spot to hit with a group of friends (they’re open Sundays), where you can spread out on the sunny terrace or snag a booth inside to admire the retro Marcel Pagnol posters and candy-stripped lighting. Pastis lovers, take note: they have a selection of over 80 different brands.
Breizh Café
While I’m a loyalist to Breizh Café’s sun-soaked outpost on rue Vieille du Temple in the Marais, the Brittany-based chain sits on charming corners throughout the city, butting up against the Canal St Martin and sprawling over a wide intersection just around the corner from Bistrot Paul Bert. Here, buckwheat galettes come in savory and sweet varieties, which together make for the perfect lunch: I tend to go for the Complète Oignons, with a sunny-side-up egg, comté, artisanal ham, and a mouth-watering spread of onions caramelized in cider, followed by a simple butter-sugar crepe.
Godaille
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“We’re going to go die,” a friend told me when I asked about our dinner plans on a recent Paris visit. A jarringly misleading pronunciation, given how life-affirming the food and friendly service are at this neo-bistro run by a group of friends near Ledru-Rollin. “Godaille” is slang for drinking and feasting in good company, which is what you should expect to do here. The menu is French with Asian influences, ranging from veal sweetbreads with pickled girolles to coconut green curry mussels with Thai basil. Opened in summer 2023 by a Septime alum, it offers expertly executed food in a decidedly jovial atmosphere. Let the staff lead you on the wine list here, which is deep-cut and pulled from their wonderful neighboring natural wine shop, Pur Vin.
Le Relais de l’Entrecôte
For no-nonsense steak frites, there’s no better place than Le Relais de l'Entrecôte. The menu at this old-timey bistro—which has popular outposts in chic Saint-Germain-des-Pres and Montparnasse, as well as abroad—hasn’t changed since 1959. The menu is très simple: walnut salad, followed by juicy sirloin steak laden with their signature herby sauce, served alongside crispy, golden French fries. Go with a group for dinner or Sunday brunch, and be sure to order a bottle of the house red with it; just be prepared to wait online.